Sealing

"Seal permanently, not periodically."

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Frequently Asked Questions

What type of sealer should I use?
There are two main types of sealers, namely, surface sealers and impregnating sealers.

A surface sealer will provide a physical barrier over the surface. The result is a darkening of the surface. These coatings usually wear relatively quickly and become more slippery when wet. Salts may also build-up under the surface, causing the coating to appear cloudy.

Impregnating sealers can be classified as those that repel water and those that repel both water and oil based stains. Impregnating sealers usually have little effect on the frictional properties and appearance of the surface but will not completely stop dirt and rubber getting into the open pores of the surface. [top]

How do I calculate the amount of sealer required?
To determine how much sealer you’ll need, measure the length and width of the area to be sealed. The amount of sealer used will depend on the particular material being sealed. For example, to seal wet-poured cement pavers you will need 1 liter per 7 sq m. (280 sq ft per US gallon) and for sandstone you will need 1 liter per 4 sq m. (80 sq ft per US gallon). Your stock list will be able to provide a guide to the amount of sealer needed for a particular material being sealed. [top]

How do I know which product is best for me?
You will need to take into account what type of porous building material you have e.g. sandstone etc, what you want to protect it from e.g. food or salt water, whether it matters if the sealer changes the look of the surface and how much are you prepared to spend. [top]

Can someone supply and apply your product for me?
Yes. Please refer to our contacts list for the name of an "Accredited Applicator" in your area who can provide you with a written lump sum quote to prepare, supply and apply one of our products. [top]

What is an Accredited Applicator?
Accredited Applicators, (sometimes referred to as Dry-Treat Certified Installers). are independent contractors or individuals with proven track records of applying of Dry-Treat products and have become accredited by Dry-Treat. These stone care professionals have taken a course at their expense in order to offer this warranty, which is backed by the manufacturer in Australia. They understand the chemistry and behavior of the products and are able to guarantee a strong seal against oil and water staining on any stone, grout, brick or concrete. [top]

How do I qualify for a written warranty and what does it mean?
If an area of porous building materials is prepared and sealed by an Dry-Treat Accredited Applicator following our written installation instructions, you may qualify for a written warranty. The warranty is between Dry-Treat and you, and states that if the sealed surface is properly maintained but fails then it will be re-sealed at no cost to you. [top]

Should the sealer be water-based or solvent-based?
Sealers need a “carrier” to take the active ingredients onto or into the surface. This carrier is either water or an organic solvent. There is no doubt that water is a safer and more environmentally suitable solvent. However, as a general rule, water-based sealers are less effective than solvent based sealers. They do not penetrate well into the surface, cannot be easily recoated, and do not perform as effectively. [top]

Why is it that some of your sealers appear to do the same thing?
Each sealer is slightly different. They are designed for different uses. For example Dry-Treat 40N will repel water and water-borne salts compared with Stain-Proof, which will repel water, water-borne salts and oil-based stains. [top]

Do I need to pre-seal my tile?
Pre-sealing i.e. sealing a tile before it is installed, helps protect the tile from installation water damage such as that caused by grouting between the tile joints. Pre-sealing also helps reduce the amount of impregnating sealer required once the tile is installed as it reduces the amount of sealer penetrating too deeply into the tile. One other important benefit of pre-sealing is to reduce the effects of grout migrating into the side of the tile causing an unsightly discoloration. Some tiles arrive on the job already pre-sealed, often with a relatively weak sealer in the factory. To check if a tile needs to be pre-sealed place a tablespoon of water on it’s surface for 30 seconds. If the water is absorbed or leaves a dark mark the tile should be pre-sealed prior to their laying. [top]

How do I maintain a sealed tile?
The long-term good looks of a sealed surface will depend on maintenance. Removing spills immediately, using diluted bleach to remove marks and routine cleaning and scrubbing of the surface will keep surfaces looking good for longer. Also, S-P Cleaner is designed to help maintain a sealed surface by cleaning and prolonging the stain resistance of the treatment. [top]

Will I still get some staining after sealing?
We believe Dry-Treat's products are the best penetrating sealers money can buy. However, they do have their limits. For instance they will not stop surface etching, so to minimize absorption the spill should be cleaned up immediately. If you want your surface to be "bullet proof" you may have to use a polyurethane coating (which will need recoating every few years, change the look and cause water to build-up underneath) or use a glazed ceramic tile. [top]

What do I do if there is already a sealer on the surface I want to treat?
Usually pre-existing sealers must be removed. The best method is to use a paint stripper that can be bought at any hardware store. Use plenty of dry white cloth when removing the sealer. Make sure you do a test area first. The exception to this is that a Dry-Treat penetrating sealer will pass through virtually any other penetrating sealer. [top]

Does Stain Proof make my surface "salt safe"?
Some customers believe that our treatments will make their sandstone “salt safe”. This is not accurate. There is no doubt that our sealers will provide a considerable long-term benefit in resisting the ingress of water and salt into the stone. However, the treated stone will not become “salt safe”. Rather, it becomes resistant to the ingress of salt.

The amount of salt already in the stone prior to treatment, the proximity to salt water, the type and quality of the stone and sub-soil drainage will all affect the durability of the sandstone. Please note that although we believe our sealers are the best available on the market they must be applied correctly. With proper application sealers will significantly improve the durability of the sandstone in a salt water environment.

To ensure the maximum protection of sandstone in harsh saltwater environments you can “dip seal” the stone. This is done by fully immersing the pavers in a bath filled with Dry-Treat 40SK Consolidator. Please note that by sealing the underside of the pavers this may significantly reduce the adhesion between the cement or water-based glue and the pavers. This problem may be overcome by using solvent-based glue. [top]

I am about to seal but have discovered large "white" marks on my cement pavers.
After their installation cement pavers are often acid washed to remove grout marks. If the pavers have not been thoroughly neutralized and rinsed clean with fresh water after acid washing then the residue from the acid wash may show up as a large white mark on the surface. These marks may be removed using a mild acid such as phosphoric acid diluted in water and scrubbed on the mark. Always test first in an inconspicuous area. [top]

Should I use Porcelain Sealer, Stain-Proof, or both?
The answer depends on how the surface absorbs the sealer. To test this, place a tablespoon full of water on the surface for 60 seconds and then wipe it off. If the water has left a dark mark Stain-Proof should be used. If there is no mark Porcelain Sealer should be used. If the mark is only slight then a combination of Stain-Proof first followed by Porcelain Sealer the next day will give the best result. Also, the grout around the tile will need to be treated with Stain-Proof. [top]

What is efflorescence?
Efflorescence is a problem affecting all cement based building materials. This includes pavers, brickwork, blockwork, concrete, render, grout and tiles.

In every kilogram of cement-based material there are also many grams of water-soluble salts. Most commonly, efflorescence begins when unused lime compounds from the cement are dissolved in mixing water, ground water or rain. Evaporation of the water brings these lime compounds to the surface where they can react with carbon dioxide in air to form insoluble crystalline calcium carbonate.

This is the unsightly white powdery material we often see on pavers that detracts from what should otherwise be an attractive and clean surface. In extreme cases the efflorescence can obscure the surface and the crystallization can cause erosion and pitting.

Eventually, the calcium carbonate may react with more carbon dioxide to form calcium bicarbonate - a material that is water-soluble. The surface may become clean after a number of months or years in the outdoors. Understandably, not everyone wants to wait that long. And since first impressions are always lasting, it’s worth preventing efflorescence problems from the start.

Just washing the efflorescence off the surface usually starts an almost endless cycle of more efflorescence rising to the surface. After only a few days the surface is as powdery as before. The answer is to seal the surface with a high performance sealer as soon as is practical after the building material is installed. The sealer must be deeply penetrating (5 - 10 mm), able to withstand the highly alkaline environment found in cement based-materials and be completely breathable so moisture cannot be trapped below the surface.

Once the surface is sealed a deep water-repelling layer is formed. This layer will prevent water and dissolved lime compounds from reaching the surface where efflorescence could occur. At the same time the sealer stops further water soaking into the surface and so breaks the cycle of efflorescence. The unused lime compounds are left harmlessly immobile in the core of the building material with little contact with carbon dioxide. Since the sealer can breathe, sub-surface moisture can escape as water vapor rather than in a liquid form.

If efflorescence has already occurred the surface can be permanently restored. Simply seal the surface and once the sealer has cured (about 24 hours after its application) the efflorescence can be scrubbed off with the help of a suitable mild acid (always test the surface first), never to been seen again. Dry-Treat sealers can perform this task without changing the look, texture or frictional properties of the surface. [top]

What is Freeze/Thaw Spalling?
During cold weather when changing temperatures cause freezing and thawing, the expansion and contraction of the water just under the surface of concrete can create areas of broken surface concrete. This condition, called spalling, is prevented by the application of Stain-Proof. Existing damage should be repaired before application of Stain-Proof. [top]

What Cleaning Materials can I Use?
Keep your sealed stone clean. You can use any cleaning materials you wish, keeping in mind that acid cleaners will etch the stone regardless of how well the stone is sealed. We recommend S-P Cleaner for everyday cleaning. However, any cleaner can be used without hurting the seal – including bleach. Caution should be used with acidic liquids (including vinegar) on marble, limestone, concrete, or other calcareous surfaces since the product will not prevent surface etching. [top]


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